Berluti presents its Spring 2023 collection

 The collection brings together a cosmopolitan mix of linen suits, double-faced cashmere blazers, tailored pants, straight Harrington-style bomber jackets, flying jackets and long sleeveless gilets. All the Berluti hallmarks are there – from the patinated finish and subtle use of the Scritto pattern under the pocket flaps, to the Un Jour zipper pulls and tab. The Scritto pattern is a perfect example of how the Maison’s symbols are reinterpreted. Initially hand-calligraphed onto shoes and leather goods, it now features on a bomber jacket and a hooded jacket in nubuck leather. Woven or printed variations of Scritto appear on windcheaters, Safari jackets and knit polo shirts, while it is also embroidered on shirts. 

Berluti’s range of leather goods has added versions of Premier Jour, Viaggio, E’Mio and Nino Duo bags in graduated patinas of distinctive shades christened Olive, Aveiro and Terra Di Sienna. And the new Greenwich Andy briefcase, introduced in Venezia Cacao Intenso leather, is sure to become an everyday companion for many. Its signature contours and detailing draw their inspiration from the iconic Andy loafer, designed by Olga Berluti for Andy Warhol. The loafer’s slit penny bar, tongue and stitching influenced the bag’s flap contours, handle design, edges, and topstitching. This agile design can be carried either by the handles or slung over the shoulder on its removable strap.

Craftmanship is under the spotlight again with Chess Patchwork, which showcases all the Maison’s savoir-faire as a bootmaker. A play of repeating squares inspired by the patchwork technique so dear to the Maison, it’s a pattern of clean, graphic lines that gives full expression to the material. Four pieces of Venezia leather – one of them embellished with the Scritto pattern – are sewn together edge-to-edge, forming a geometry in the purest tradition that recalls the art of marquetry.