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BIR-HAKEIM

A brand new patina takes over Berluti’s most emblematic accessories and is a perfect match for this season’s lavish outerwear.

  • Photography: Ronan Gallagher

  • Video: Nicolas Santos

  • Models: Huug Noordermeer, Olly Martyn, Svend Tofte Bjorn

For the Spring 2020 Pre-Collection, Berluti enriches its patina story by putting a brand new spin on a vintage blue brown patina originally created by Olga Berluti. Delving into the Maison’s archives, Kris Van Assche has reworked it into a vibrant flame blue shade. Dubbed Burnt Blue, it is obtained by using an exceptional reversed patina treatment, with details and contours of each piece highlighted in bright colours instead of the usual darker tone treatment.


Taking over Berluti’s emblematic bags and shoes, Burnt Blue is also unexpectedly mirrored in this season’s knitwear, an interpretation of the patina in ultra-soft cashmere. Its brushed jacquard blends different colours together with a patina-inspired shaded effect that mixes beautifully with outerwear.

A bonded, reversible hooded jacket made of supple deer skin and kangaroo fur can be worn casually or with a sophisticated allure - with the fur outside. The same materials are used on a purposefully oversized yet light jacket worn over a suit.


A Vitello Fiore leather bomber with a classic patina effect is completed with an embossed Scritto motif paying homage to the art of calligraphy. The Scritto also appears on a classic wool coat. In contrast jacquard and hidden on the inside, it injects a fashion mood to a timeless silhouette.

Burnt Blue is the star of the season’s shoes, taking over signature models including the “Alessandro”, Berluti’s ultimate lace up Oxford originally created by Alessandro Berluti in 1895 and made from a single piece of leather without any visible seam.

This season, it has been revamped with a thicker sole and wider laces, taking on a contemporary attitude while honoring the Maison’s history. Just like the new “Alessandro Creeper”, equipped with a rubber creeper sole that goes with both business and casual looks.


Bags celebrate functionality and casual chic. Crafted from Venezia leather and padded Jacquard Scritto nylon with palladium-enhanced metal hardware, they prove resistant, lightweight, supple and naturally water-repellent. Ideal for both city wear and the weekend, the new “Hike On” backpack includes several inside pockets and padded nylon details providing structure and comfort.

Compact and light, the “Lucky Day” satchel features an engraved Scritto, laser-coloured in a striking shade of methyl blue. The same motif completes the “Un Jour Mini” briefcase, roomy enough for a laptop while remaining lean in volume. Finally, in its tiniest version, the” Un Jour Gulliver” can be worn on the hand or cross body with a removable nylon shoulder strap, making for an unapologetic, daring fashion statement.

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